Canada - Day 7 - Canmore to Bolton Creek Campground

 48.3 miles, 4600’ climbing, 3 separate groups of bighorn sheep, some deer, another wolf possibly

Before leaving our fancy Canmore hotel (hot tubs, laundry, fluffy white robes to lounge in), we had coffee, croissants, and fresh fruit purchased the night before. It was 5 miles up hill to rejoin the route, some steep trail and then a road that had an average grade of 9-11% for a mile or two. What a way to wake up!

Near the reservoir at the top of the climb we saw two separate groups of bighorn sheep. One group had two lambs, one very small, but they all crossed the road and leapt over the guard rail, the little ones kicking off the top.

Soon we arrived at Spray Lakes. Coming in on the Tour Divide route was a group of 6 touring cyclists. They joked that they had been 7 the day before, but they hadn’t brought enough food, so one made the ultimate sacrifice. They also said everybody in their party had taken a fall the day before. Ouch! We hope to see them again, but we separated as they took the road and we got on the High Rockies Trail next to the lake shore.

After about 2 miles we crossed the road to where the trail continues. It was very beautiful and also more strenuous than the road, with lots of dips and rises through the forest. Some snow was on the ground, but the trail was pretty perfect, not like the muddy, wet, snowy mess we rode on two years ago. 

After a couple hours, we moved to the road to cover some ground a little faster. It wasn’t nearly as washboarded as in the past. We saw a rider coming at us and stopped to chat, quickly identifying him as the “Fuck Yeah Guy” who is riding the full GNBR all the way to Newfoundland from Victoria. For whatever reason he has chosen the trail name of the Fuck Yeah Guy, he has recently been in Tucson so it was cool to make that connection.  He was funny and enthusiastic. We exchanged stickers and photos and trail  impressions, then parted ways. It got colder and some corn snow came down on us.

Ed and I got back on the High Rockies Trail, seeing a few hikers near the suspension bridge, enjoying flowy singletrack that even has some banked turns. Definitely this is the best riding we’ve had so far!

Soon we descended to Peter Lougheed park. Our trail became a paved bikeway for several miles, and we didn’t see a soul. We got a campsite at the registration area and a coke. The park isn’t nearly as busy as on our last visits, with lots of empty camp sites. We settled in to our site and had had chili mac burritos for dinner, a favorite.

After dinner we walked our campground loop to see if the group of cyclists we saw earlier today were camped here (nope). Only two other campsites are taken, both RVs. As we got to the end of our walk, we saw a large dog-like animal trotting towards us on the shoulder of the road. It was large, beige, and moved like a fluffy dog. We stood still waiting for it to go past, but it disappeared into the woods. Seemed too large to be a coyote. Did we just see another wolf?

Did we mention it’s cold?

Canada - Day 6 - Banff to Canmore via Spray Lakes

30.6 miles, 2316’ climbing, 🐺1 wolf, some deer, no bears

It was cold, and there was still snow on the ground when we woke up. Tents were wet.  We packed up as best we could, no real hurry. Matt planned to go north,  and we planned to a check the weather, and take a short ride south on the GNBR so we could thoroughly dry our gear out. We decided to see the cave hot springs in Banff before leaving town, but we found it was closed for the week when we arrived. Instead we took a slow pedal up to Sundance canyon on a paved trail by the river. Lo and behold, we spotted a wolf across the water. He retreated when he saw us, but we got a good look and a decent pic. Back in Banff we had an early lunch, then headed up the GNBR towards Spray Lakes. In spite of all the rain, the trail was in great condition with only shallow puddles to cross. About 4 miles from town, our route joined the tour divide route which we traversed the last two years, and it brought back a lot of memories of those events. In 12 miles, we saw 4 mountain bikers and a few hikers, it really felt like we were alone. 

Eventually we reached the cutoff to Canmore where we admired a beautiful reservoir before making the quick descent to town. I think we’re at a lower elevation than Banff, do we didn’t gain many route miles on our ride today. Also it’s a huge climb back to the trail.

Our hotel in Canmore is pretty nice. We chatted with a couple from Toronto in the hot tub, then walked to the market to get groceries. Back in our room, we ate dinner while cheering on the Oilers in the Stanley Cup finals (like the locals). We washed every item of clothing we have, so that will be nice on the next couple days.

Canada - Day 5 - Zero day in Banff

 Given the weather forecast (cold and wet) and word from other riders about how cold the next stretch has been, we decided to take a zero day in Banff. We already had a campground reserved, Tunnel Mountain Village 1, a ways from town up a hill.

We met PJ for breakfast and saw him off heading south on the divide, then packed swimsuits and took a bus to the Banff Upper Hot Springs, run by the national park. We spent about an hour soaking in the outdoor pool while the weather changed from sunny to raining and back. After lunch and picking up groceries, we pulled our bikes and gear out of the hostel storage area and rode to our campsite, setting up our tent in a hurry as it rained and hailed.

Firewood is provided in this campground, but it was damp. In the neighboring campsite, a family in an RV helped us get our campfire going. As the rain came down and we prepared dinner under a fur tree, they invited us in to dry off. Around the same time, Matt Kadey, originator of the Great Northern Bikepacking Route, rolled into camp. He has been riding a segment in the opposite direction from us, and we’ve exchanged some emails. We didn’t think it would work out to meet, so it was a nice surprise when it did. Matt has been in heavy snowfalls, and he shared trail info, recommendations, best segments, and stories. 

We enjoyed the hospitality of our neighbors from near Edmonton, 3 generations — Peter, Elaine, their daughter, her husband Kevin, 2 cute toddlers, and a dog. After we warmed up in their RV, we went back to chat with Matt. Snow was accumulating in big wet flakes, covering tents, picnic tables, and foliage. A group of cow elk passed by. The warmest spot to talk was the restroom. Some people in campsites managed to keep fires going while others cooked under the restroom overhang. We could hear trains in the distance. It’s cool and kinda crazy to meet the person who put this route together and exchange stories while warming up in the men’s room at a camp site. We crawled into our sleeping bags at 9pm though it would be light for a while longer. Rain and snow were still coming down.

Canada - Day 4 - Icefields Parkway, Lake Louise to Banff

 38.0 miles, 981’ climbing, 🐻 1 black bear

We met PJ at 8am and rolled the back way out of our hostel on a path and across some pretty bridges. At a coffee shop, hanging flower pots had been wrapped in plastic to protect against freezing. In one we spotted a couple of birds which seemed to have been relaxing in the flower pots and gotten trapped. After releasing them, we went into the coffee shop for breakfast.

After breakfast we rolled out under a light drizzle headed to Banff, leaving a day early due to the weather, skipping out on our reserved camp site. It was cold out, temp said 36 and it felt it.  

As soon as we started riding down the Bow Valley Parkway, known for beautiful scenery and wildlife, we saw signs that our intended route for the day was closed for a special event.  Being stubborn, we rode past those signs, hoping bicycles would be able to get through.  Since most cars had heeded the closed road warning it was a really nice ride with hardly any traffic.  

After about 5 miles we encountered a medium sized black bear on the roadside happily munching on the plants.  He seemed unconcerned with us and eventually ran into the woods when a large truck approached.

We passed many potential stops along the parkway to view scenery but everything was obscured by clouds.  Still the woods were very beautiful. Eventually we arrived at a store where we found out that the road ahead was closed for a Sunday morning marathon, and we’d have to make a detour on to the busy highway or wait 5 hours for the event to end.  We opted for the divided highway and soon we were riding along with the semis and other traffic.  The shoulder was very wide, so it wasn’t that bad, and the trip into Banff was mostly downhill with a slight tailwind, but it was wet and chilly. The entire highway is enclosed in electric fences to keep wildlife off, and there were two wildlife overpasses with trees and greenery growing on them.

Finally we made it into Banff and headed to a pizza place we had visited on prior trips for a delicious lunch.  Then we headed to our hostel for the night, hung out in the comfy lobby until our room was ready. We were lucky to get a private room on short notice since hotels are so expensive in Banff.  The hostel is a bit out of town, so using the free bus passes we received we went into town for resupply. Then back for a tasty dinner and drinks at the lodge next door.

Tomorrow we will take a rest day since the weather looks wet and cold. It’s early in our travel for a day off, but word from cyclists on the route suggests it’s better to wait. We will move to the campsite tomorrow which we reserved a few weeks ago.

Canada - Day 3 - Icefields Parkway, Mosquito campground to Lake Louise

 16.7 miles, 302’ climbing - 1 🐻 black bear

PJ from Minnesota rolled into camp last night at 8:30pm (felt like 6pm at this latitude) as we were in camp getting ready for the night following our delicious meal of rehydrated Chili-Mac on tortillas. We invited him to throw his tent up alongside ours. After chatting for a bit we turned in for the night.

It was crisp out when we woke, and while packing up it began to briefly snow.  We were hoping to beat the weather on our short ride today, and other than some light rain and snow we did.  The three of us started out around 8:30 and rode into the town of Lake Louise.  On the way we spotted a black bear by the road, small but not a cub. It was shy, and we crossed to the opposite shoulder to pass it. 

Upon arrival in Lake Louise we stopped at a gas station with a little coffee shop attached where we had bagels and coffee. Five stars for that gas station! Nearby was the HI Hostel where we are staying for the night.  We stashed our bikes, changed into non-biking clothes, and the three of us hiked 4.5 miles to the actual Lake Louise, a picturesque lake with a gargantuan luxury hotel on its shore with fancy restaurants and stores, the kind of place where you can wear a long evening gown at 2 in the afternoon and not feel out of place.  Fortunately hiking attire is also suitable. The Lake is also a major tourist attraction bringing in hundreds by bus, so it was crowded with people vying to get a selfie that makes it look like you are in alone in a serene setting.

We took a bus back to the hostel and had a snack and ping pong game while we waited for our room to be ready.

The heavy rain expected for the day never materialized, although it may show up tomorrow when we make our way to Banff.  Hoping not!

Canada - Day 2 - Icefields Parkway, Icefields campground to Mosquito campground

 65.8 miles, 3625’ climbing - 🐻 1 black bear

Skies were cloudy when we woke up. After breaking camp, PJ was still in his tent, so we left without saying goodbye. Maybe we’ll see him down the road.

The theme of the day was changing weather and temperatures. We also had a lot of downhill which was a nice contrast to all the climbing yesterday. After a climb to the pass, we started descending, taking breaks to put puffies, rain gear, and overmitts on and off as it drizzled, cleared up, and at one point it snowed on us. 

We quickly left the Athabasca River behind, instead following the North Sasketchuan down. We made stops and side excursions to look at a creek flowing out of a slot canyon, waterfalls, glaciers and heaps of snow on nearby mountains. 

We spotted a black bear by the roadside. By the time we reached him, a handful of cars had stopped, but the bear was munching on vegetation, unconcerned, so we pedaled past.

We took a lunch break at the Crossings Lodge as the rain started again, and we chatted briefly with 3 northbound bikepackers.

Our planned destination was Waterfowl Lake campground, and it was closed. The next campground was online reservations only (no cell service), so we continued on to Bow Lake. The lodge desk had closed and they only took multiple night bookings. It was cold and snowing as we got back on our bikes. Seven miles later the sun came out as we rolled into Mosquito campground, large and charming and nearly full, but we managed to nab a site. It was a longer day than we planned, but tomorrow is forecast to be very wet, so good to be closer to Lake Louise where we will be next.

Canada - Day 1 - Icefields Parkway, Jasper to Columbia Icefields Campground

 66.73 miles, 4488’ elevation gain - 🐻 1 bear 

After coffee and a muffin at our hostel, we set out for our ride down the Icefields parkway, leaving Jasper around 7:30am. For about 4 miles we rode on a path along the Athabasca River which we would follow all day. It’s large and fast near Jasper, a turquoise color. After another 4 miles, after seeing a handful of deer, the path ended and we went on good pavement with a wide shoulder. There are a lot of international tourists and steady cars, but it’s early season, must get much more crowded later. 

Around mile 15, just as we started up a long hill, a shuttle bus driver for Maligne Tours stopped on the opposite shoulder and shouted out the window that a large, cinnamon bear had just crossed the highway to our side, which was quite close to the river. He said it had been on a carcass across the road, and he would turn around to use his bus as a barrier between us and the bear. He didn’t think we should cross the road and ride on the opposite shoulder because the carcass was there. He turned around, pulled in front of us on our shoulder. The bear was briefly visible on the river bank, headed back towards the road, but we couldn’t see whether it was a black bear or grizz. The driver stopped and we passed and pedaled on up the hill, and we didn’t see the bear again . The driver had to turn around again, such a thoughtful thing to do.

Soon we came to Athabasca falls, a dramatic sight shortly off our route. By early afternoon we were ready for a break when we passed the Sunwaptu Lodge. We stopped for a snack and beverage. While we ate, Ed saw a raven fly down to our bikes. He ran out behind an employee who scolded the bird by name, but it had already pecked into one clif bar Ed had in a mesh bag near his handlebars, and he flew off with another one. A smart if infuriating bird.

The river got smaller and the scenery of snow capped peaks and glaciers got more dramatic all day. With 8 miles to go, we faced an 8 mile hill, and it was steep (the climb up river had been very reasonable all day). About 2 miles up was a group of bighorn sheep, stopped cars, and another rider, PJ from Minnesota bikepacking the divide. We continued up hill past a sky bridge viewing spot, then stopped at the Columbia Icefields lodge for a burger dinner (amazing views opposite). PJ also stopped and we compared notes. We all continued 1 more mile to a tent only campground, firewood included for cad$28.50, really nice and small. We had a fire, put our food in the bear boxes, chatted with a group of mountaineers/climbers from Taiwan, looked at a local waterfall, and hit the hay.