Nepal Day 06 - Namche Bazaar to Deboche

 8.25 miles, 2837’ climbing

Paradise Lodge, Deboche, 12,208’

High point: Tengboche Monastery, 12,681’

After breakfast, we headed uphill out of Namche again, this time turning northeast on a relatively easy path that contoured around the hillside. We looked for tahr but didn’t spot any. The skies were even clearer than the day before. We were intermittently passing thru pines and rhododendrons with views down to the Dudh Kosi below, the same river we’ve been following since Lukla. Rounding a corner, we had amazing views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Lotse, and a few others. As we contoured around the mountainside, they came in and out of view. Lots of other trekkers crowded the trail in places. We saw our first pure yaks, larger and shaggier than their hybrid cousins. Some porters were carrying huge loads (one said 70kg). There were also horses, dzopkyos, carrying loads up hill or returning downhill without them. Lots of helicopters passed overhead with loads too.

Eventually we started a steep descent. When we had descended all the way to the river, we stopped at a small restaurant for lunch (veg fried rice with egg). Then we crossed a suspension bridge and headed up the long, steep hill to Tengboche Monastery, the 2nd oldest one in the region and very important to Tibetan Buddhism.

Bire led us into the monastery (no photos allowed inside). A two day event was in progress with about 25 monks sitting on benches, wrapped in red blankets, butter lamps burning, and chanting prayers out loud, each reading from old Tibetan texts. We walked to the side and settled cross legged on thin cushions on the floor,not easy on the knees, but we didn’t want to point our feet at anyone. After we listened a while, we got to our feet and walked clockwise around the monastery, looking at the paintings, statues, and other items. You can circle an odd number of times, so we walked around 3 times. Then we circled the grounds, always clockwise, and left.

Clouds had rolled in and it was cold. The trail down to Deboche was muddy in places, but we arrived before too long and had hot lemon tea. A trekking party from the UK turned up who were also at the Bodhi Lodge in Namche last night. We were tired after the long uphill climb. The lodge owner lit a fire, and the common room became pretty lively with the other trekkers.